Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM Sport Lens Review

All text & photos ©SimonDP/Actionimage 2015

The mid-telephoto range of lenses is usually restricted to prime lenses, should you be looking for a lens of the 300mm f/2.8 type. But for many years Sigma has been producing one of the best lenses in this telephoto range, with the added advantage that you can have your 300mm f/2.8, and zoom back to 120mm f/2.8!

When the original Sigma EX 120-300mm f/2.8 APO IF HSM was launched circa 2002, I bought one as soon as the first ones landed in South Africa. Using it extensively since then as my main lens for covering motorsports, rugby, athletics, gymnastics and also birds and wildlife mostly with a 1.4x Extender fitted, it worked really hard with more than a 100 000 shots taken with it. Still going strong too.

Some years ago I tested the first OS version of the 120-300 f/2.8 (which was then the 3rd generation of this lens) and was very impressed by its performance. Now with Sigma’s Global Vision concept and the launch of the 120-300mm f/2.8 DG OS HSM Sport lens (hereafter referred to as the 120-300 Sport) I jumped at the opportunity when offered one to use for a full field evaluation over a couple of months.

Listed below are the basic specifications of the 120-300 Sport lens, followed by a discussion on some of the important specifications and controls of the lens.

From top to bottom

Focus Mode Switch AF/MF, Focus Limiter Switch, Optical Stabiliser Switch, Custom Selector Switch. Also shown to the right of the switch panel is the bracket for the attachment of a lens strap and at the bottom the Twist Knob for the tripod mounting ring.

Focus mode switch AF/MF

Offers the standard autofocus (AF) and manual focus (MF) modes. An ultrasonic type focus motor that Sigma calls HSM (Hyper-Sonic Motor) for a fast and quiet AF function is standard for this lens.

A focus limiter switch is fitted, providing the following settings:  minimum – 10m, 10m – infinity and the full focus range.

Optical Stabiliser Switch

A two-stage OS is included:

• Mode 1: Normal OS in both horizontal and vertical planes
• Mode 2: Panning mode – OS in the vertical plane only

Also fitted is a special Custom Selector Switch

Using the USB Dock (sold separately, and which basically looks like a rear lens cap with electronic contacts and a USM cable) with the free Sigma Optimization Pro software the user can update the firmware of the lens and add custom settings to his lens setup for AF, OS function and focus range. Different settings can be stored in two memories, C1 and C2. More on this later in the review.

Mass

This is one heavy lens, tipping the scales at almost 3.4 kg it is more than 500g heavier than my generation 1 lens. Which is to be expected really with the inclusion of the OS module and different optical design.

A very sturdy, removable tripod mounting collar is supplied with click settings at right angles, enabling the lens to rotate easily to the desired orientation. The lens tightens securely in the collar with the familiar twist knob operation. I did find the collar a little jerky in operation, could be that it will wear a little smoother with time.

This lens feels very intimidating in the hand. It is a heavier lens than what most will be accustomed to, even heavier than the Sigma 150-600 Sport lens which I evaluated recently and is available to read here. Even though it is a heavy piece of kit, I did some handheld shots with it, but for consistent results I would not recommend doing so on a regular basis. It really belongs on a monopod, tripod or beanbag, whichever suits the situation. Build quality appears to be very good, with a durable exterior finish. After three months of heavy use it looked the same as it did when new.

Size

With the metallic alloy lens hood fitted it sticks out 385mm in front of the camera, and having internal zoom and internal focus, it means the overall length of the lens remains the same whatever you do to it, except removing the lens hood. Being used to lenses of this size, I didn’t find it overly bulky or unwieldy. It definitely is a step up from my generation 1 version of this lens.

Handling

For the field evaluation of this lens, I had lined up a test to visually check the calibration of the lens to my Canon EOS 1D MkIV camera body. Following on from that the field evaluation would encompass motorsport events and some birding and wildlife, concentrating more on the AF tracking capability rather just static captures of a subject. These tests would include using the lens on its own and with a 1.4x Extender fitted, turning the lens into a 168-420mm f/4 lens.

With extended use the bigger and heavier lenses can really put a strain on arm, shoulder and neck muscles if one should try to handhold them for any length of time. This is also not conducive to stability which will result in photos which are not really sharp and crisp. Remember OS can only do so much for the photographer. The end result is that I prefer to use a monopod with these lenses for added stability and comfort when out in the field looking for birds, wildlife or covering sports events. From a vehicle, I will use a bean bag with the odd handheld snapshot every now and then.

I used this 120-300 Sport lens to cover motorsport and rugby, all done using a monopod and belt pouch. No doubt one could use it for cricket too, fitted with a 1.4x Extender and using a crop body for added reach, but I didn’t try it. Trust me when I say it will perform more than good enough, offering sufficient reach and being fast enough on maximum aperture (168-420 f4 when a 1.4x Extender is fitted).

I also used it during quite a few trips out in the bush for wildlife and birding photography. Some shots were taken off a bean bag whilst vehicle bound, some handheld (refer photo of the Eland Bull) whilst the birding shots were taken using a monopod.

I did use the OS quite a bit and found it very effective in neutralising camera shake in general, offering at least a 2 stop advantage in shutter speed and also when panning fast moving subjects at slower shutter speeds. No doubt with proper technique, and monopod this could easily be a 4-stop advantage.

The relatively short minimum focusing distance of 1.5m @ 120mm and 2.5m @ 300mm is very handy for those birds perching close to the photographer in a bird hide or tightly framed shots at sports events, be it of the action or portraits of the players all done using just one lens.

Calibration

My first AF test showed the lens to have a heavy back-focus tendency, which I couldn’t compensate for with the AF fine-tune setting of my camera. So I connected the USB dock provided by Tudortech and using the Sigma Optimization Pro software, first of all updated the firmware of the lens (internet connection required for this). Then I reset the lens calibration setting, and could then also reset the camera AF fine-tune setting. Then taking it step by step, at the different zoom settings, I started fine-tuning the AF calibration of the lens using the software and writing the updates to the lens. See the screen capture of the software. This process was repeated three times, each time writing the settings, then back to actual AF testing, loading the photos, checking them, fit the USB dock, update settings, write to lens, AF testing again. The end result was a spectacularly accurate AF calibration at the zoom settings and distances as per the screen capture picture.

Also, learning from my experience with the Sigma 150-600 Sport, I registered on the C1 custom setting the adjusted AF Speed Setting to prioritise the AF drive motor to achieve fast initial focus. The intention here was to evaluate the effect on fast paced sports and action photography at shorter distances rather than long range, with the closer to camera action always providing a more severe test for the AF performance of a camera and lens.

In general I found the USB Dock and software very easy and intuitive to use. One does have to be connected to the internet for the automatic check on firmware updates, but once done you can just close those request screens and move to the customisation screen. After changing and setting those parameters you wish to change, remember to write the settings to the lens by clicking the “Rewriting” button.