How do you use the light meter of your camera?

[Gerrit Laubscher]

I know that using the camera light meter is a very wide topic but was just curious on how you are doing it.

The general rule would be to look for the midpoint in the light you have in your frame and meter there and then use compensation to balance the exposure. I have seen a few other applications as well. Some people would always use matrix and then use compensation to drop or lift the overall exposure. Others would meter in the bright areas to make sure it is not blown out and then add exposure for the shot. The overall light conditions can also have an impact on how you want to use it.

Please share on how you do it.

[Surly Ghillie]

Select 3 degree spot mode then ;

1. measure my deepest shadow where I require detail
2. measure my brightest hilite where I require detail.
3. select the midpoint and shoot.

works for 99% of applications

[Henk Coetzee]

I've been struggling a bit in the past two weeks with dark mountains with some deep shadows, snow caps on top and bright skies. What I usually do is meter in the mid tones - spot measurements, check histograms and try to expose to the right (a debate in itself). I also set the over/underexposure warnings on my camera's lcd and use this to feel my way into an area or a scene. After a while shooting under the specific conditions, I get a idea of what works - camera set to matrix, exposure lock on spot and take things from there.

I still don't fully understand what the obsession some people have with manual exposure is all about. As long as you understand what the meter you are using - camera or otherwise - is measuring and understand the effects of compensating for it, you have a guide to start with. From there, it's up to you. The same with chimping exposure. The histogram is a wonderful tool, even if it's only calculated from the jpeg preview the camera is showing you. We have some wonderful tools available to us.

To be honest, I would be more than happy with a good centre weighted match needle system and an aperture ring on the lens. It worked for me for years.

[Forgiss - Sean Nel]

I guess the starting exposure, and fine tune (on manual) according to the histogram feedback.

... unless there's a client with me or a creative director, in which case I will start off with about 20 minutes of walking around with a colour chart, grey card and lightmeter... then I guess the starting exposure, and fine tune (on manual) according to the histogram feedback.

[Surly Ghillie]

I've been struggling a bit in the past two weeks with dark mountains with some deep shadows, snow caps on top and bright skies.

you're probably looking at a tonal range (dynamic range) beyond the ability of your medium to record. try gradient neutral density filters (to truncate that tonal range into something your sensor can cope with), or use multi-frame exposure fusion (to extend the dynamic range you are recording acurately). capiche?

[Henk Coetzee]

you're probably looking at a tonal range (dynamic range) beyond the ability of your medium to record. try gradient neutral density filters (to truncate that tonal range into something your sensor can cope with), or use multi-frame exposure fusion (to extend the dynamic range you are recording acurately). capiche?

I get it. ND grads would help, although it would be interesting with the geometry of the mountains I'm in. I like the descriptive term you use - multi-frame exposure fusion, as opposed to HDR. This would have been possible if I had a tripod with me. I'm constrained in terms of time, weight and space, this being a working trip and not a photographic safari.

[Surly Ghillie]

I get it. ND grads would help, although it would be interesting with the geometry of the mountains I'm in. I like the descriptive term you use - multi-frame exposure fusion, as opposed to HDR. This would have been possible if I had a tripod with me. I'm constrained in terms of time, weight and space, this being a working trip and not a photographic safari.

there are other ways to anchor your camera, besides a tripod. often I find myself shooting 9 frame stacks just using a beanbag... or even a sandbag is entirely feasable. just use what you have and experiment till you find something workable for you. versatility is the name of the game.

[EttVenter]

Spot metering, meter my subject's face, correctly expose, and shoot. That's the way I do it. This is obviously what works for portraiture, though. Portraiture is 99% of what I do, so this might not be best for other types of shooting

[Larry]

Matrix metering as a general rule.

Swop to spot or centre weighted when subject is backlit or similar lighting issue.